6/9/02 8:14 PM Pacific

I'm going to get a fair bit of writing done today if I can. We're at our bed & breakfast in Birdsview (Concrete) right now and have been trying to take it easy. This is my first experience with a b&b and I think I'm enjoying myself. So now let me jump back to yesterday (Saturday) and the San Juan Islands.

Because we knew we couldn't catch an earlier ferry to the islands than 2:40 PM we took our time in getting up and getting ready in the morning, not actually leaving until around 10:00 AM. The drive down was pretty, but otherwise not all that interesting, though we did see one or two hawks/falcons flying near the road. When we got to Burlington and turned off to go towards Anacortes we got the momentary "whee" of knowing that Vanya and Vanessa lived nearby, but since we weren't going to be seeing them it didn't last long. The area West of Burlington was probably the flattest we have seen out here and would have been almost Ohio-like but for the distant mountains and roadside stands selling shrimp.

We got to and through Anacortes easily enough and were lined up for the ferry by 12:40 or 12:50 PM. I'm glad that we were, too, because there looked to be a lot of people wanting to get over there. We spent a little time wandering the beach and learning about the local history and ecosystem before we went back to the car. Lauren read for a while and I wrote in my journal.

The eventual ferry ride was very pleasant and provided some spectacular views of the islands, but it was very windy and quite cold. There were also some children on the boat that almost didn't make it out to the island. I had to work very hard to restrain myself from picking them up and tossing them into the sea. I very much dislike having my day and peace disturbed by noisy rude kids who run around screaming and getting in my way. Intolerant? Yes, thank you. On the hour long ride we saw another bald eagle, this time in flight. Still no orcas though.

After we had disembarked the boat in Friday Harbor we parked the car and spent a relatively pleasant hour wandering around. It is a cute little town that could be a nice place to hang out, if a little dull. There was one store that we went into that carried items of Northwest Indian art. One piece was a Raven-Orca totem pole that stood about 30-32" high. I fell in love with it but we had to leave it there because we didn't have $3,000 to spend there.

After a little while we got back in the car to drive around the island a bit. I had discovered that there were two lighthouses and I wanted to take pictures of them for my mom and dad, so we made for the nearest of the twain first. We never did make it all the way to that one, but we did find a nice beach to wander on for a bit where I got these pictures.

Then we headed for the other one. As we neared the state park that encompassed the lighthouse our route took us along the coastal cliff tops. It was then that I saw what I've been waiting to see since my family's first trip to Acadia National Park about ten years ago. I saw orcas in the wild.

At first there is just a barely noticed disturbance in the water, seen from the corner of your eye. You look out at the sea harder, knowing that it could be the wind or a gull. Then you see that tall, black fin slice out of the water in a clean, smooth arc that reveals the glistening back of the whale. And your heart stops for just a second. And then there is another and another and another. And your heart rate triples as a breathily uttered prayer escapes your lips. "Orcas..." We immediately pulled over to the side of the road, exploding from the car to stand enthralled for a few minutes. Then I hurriedly ushered Lauren to the car because the pod looked to be headed in the direction of the park.

We sped down the road to get there and ran down the path that led to the shore. Binoculars and camera in hand we skidded to a halt as we came to the rock wall at the side of the path. There in front of us was the pod of orcas. We never got to see more of them than their backs, dorsal fins, and an occasional glimpse of white, but that was enough to steel our breath and leave us absolutely enchanted. I don't think I'll ever forget those moments our how they made me feel. It was incredible and magickal and I want to see it all again.

We stayed there for 30-35 minutes and saw 12 or so different whales in that time. Of those, at least four to six were young, being much smaller than the others. You could also tell they were younger because of the newfound joy they took in the act of swimming. We took some pictures. They suck, but I'm going to through them in here anyway. They are enough for me to trigger the real memories of that golden moment in time.

After the last of those beautiful creatures had vanished beneath the waves for the last time we made our way back to Friday Harbor where we dined on on pizza and ice cream. Then we caught the 8:00 PM ferry back to Anacortes. This time we stayed in the back of the boat where it was warmer and less windy. I got some really beautiful pictures of the sunset.

Finally we were back on the mainland for good and were able to drive South to the town of Oak Harbor where we were staying for the night. When we got to the Best Western we were in for a really nasty surprise. We found out that the motel only had smoking rooms. As a result of this the whole room stank of tobacco, tar and cancer, and I spent a miserable night feeling my lungs fill with poison as they drew less and less oxygen from the air. We couldn't get out of there fast enough in the morning.

That brings me up today. Of course there are spasms of pain running through my hand, and my writing is getting sloppier and sloppier. I think it's time to stop for now.